In September 2023, we embarked on a cycling adventure around Jeju Island, following the Jeju Fantasy Bicycle Path. Armed with two folding bikes, our mission was to cover about 240 kilometers in six days, collecting ten stamps along the way to fill our Bike Passports. These stamps, placed at various checkpoints, serve as markers of progress and encourage cyclists to explore different parts of the island. Our journey was designed to explore at a leisurely pace, allowing plenty of time for food breaks, swimming, and detours. The Jeju Fantasy Cycling path promised a mix of coastal roads, rugged hills, and scenic inland routes, making for an unforgettable bike trip.
Day 1: Starting Off
Moving time: 3:17:54 – Distance: 41.11 km – Climbing: 551 m
We began our journey at Jeju International Airport on an early afternoon. After quickly unpacking the two 16″ bikes, we walked out of the airport and started pedaling. Crossing Jeju City, we reached the shore, where a strong headwind greeted us. After a hearty lunch, we rode slowly through suburbs and state roads, taking occasional breaks. The path became increasingly rugged and hilly as it turned inland. The first day of the trip was not particularly scenic and definitely tiring, but we pushed through, ending the day with 41 kilometers, 551 meters of elevation, and our first two stamps.
Day 2: Coastal Ride
Moving time: 3:46:53 – Distance: 45.8 km – Climbing: 280 m
We started the day with a leisurely breakfast at Hyeopjae Beach, opposite Biyangdo Island. From there, we rode west through various beach parks before following the coast south. The landscape soon changed to cacti-covered black rocks, a striking reminder of Jeju’s volcanic nature. The high temperatures made the numerous pavilions along the way perfect spots to escape the heat and rest.
For lunch, we stopped near Dangsanbong at a great local spot called 한경가든, where we had a full course meal that revolved around fresh catches from the nearby sea. Post-lunch, we rode south, passing racks of drying squids placed on the side of the road and reaching the scenic Eongal Coastal Road, a UNESCO Global Geopark. The following stretch of the itinerary, heading southwest, was a bit desolate and dotted with industrial inland fisheries.
Near Songaksan, the scenery shifted again to lush green vegetation and open landscapes. Our ride ended near Sagye Beach, where we stopped at a local pension and enjoyed a refreshing fusion Italian dinner at a restaurant called 폭. We ended the day having covered 45 kilometers with 280 meters of elevation.
Day 3: Seogwipo Journey
Moving time: 4:46:21 – Distance: 46.81 km – Climbing: 607 m
Day three was the hardest, with over 600 meters of elevation on small-wheeled, heavily loaded bikes. We started with breakfast at a convenience store in the shade of Sanbang Mountain, enjoying views of this iconic dome-shaped volcano. The climb began steadily, covering about 12 km of continuous uphill riding through green landscapes and quiet roads circling the volcano.
The descent into Seogwipo was steep but manageable, thanks to a dedicated cycling path that offered a smoother ride and safety from traffic. We then stopped at a quaint café just before reaching Cheonjeyeon Waterfall, where we cooled down from the scorching heat. Our lunch spot was along the scenic Choeyeong coastal road, which provides stunning views of Beomseom island.
In Seogwipo City, we took a much-needed break at a beach park after a second climb, and then paused yet again to visit to the Walchon Museum, which added a cultural touch to a day spent sweating on the saddle.
Determined to reach our hotel before sunset, we cycled through some of the most peaceful and picturesque paths of our trip, particularly around the coast facing Seopseom Island. The winding roads and serene atmosphere made this section a highlight. We ended the day covering 46 kilometers with 607 meters of elevation. Satisfied but exhausted, we ended the day in front of a black pork BBQ.
Day 4: Coastal Plains to Sunrise Peak
Moving time: 3:21:52 – Distance: 45.19 km – Climbing: 179 m
On day 4 we started early, anticipating a long but flat ride. The morning was cool, but the heat soon demanded frequent hydration stops. Our first major break was at Pyeoson Beach, known for its clear waters and expansive sandy shores during low tide. We rested longer than usual due to some creeping saddle soreness.
Riding through small villages, we saw traditional Jeju stone houses and tangerine farms. As we approached Seongsan Ilchulbong, Sunrise Peak, its unique tuff cone formation loomed large. We finished near this UNESCO site, totaling 51 kilometers and 353 meters of elevation. After checking in, we hiked to the crater rim for panoramic views, ending the day with a sense of accomplishment and with soju and seafood in our bellies.
Day 5: Inland Challenges
Moving time: 4:51:16 – Distance: 51.94 km – Climbing: 352 m
Day five brought unexpected challenges and plenty of adventure. We started with a cool coastal breeze before turning inland through small plots of carrot and onion farms. Due to rain the previous day, we had to divert several times to avoid thick, sticky black mud made of volcanic ash. Eventually, we made it to our first major stop, Bigarin Forest. The forest is home to hundreds of nutmeg tree and many more tourists. After a brief rest and some photos, we rode downhill towards the coast.
Back on the cycling path, we passed through several scenic spots, including Hallim Park and Hyeopjae Beach. The west coast of Jeju is known for its breathtaking scenery, with dramatic cliffs, turquoise waters, and unique geological formations. We took our time to enjoy the views and stopped frequently for photos and short breaks.
We finished the day riding 51 kilometers with 353 meters of elevation, ending at a cozy pension by the sea. Despite a few challenges, the day was filled with scenic beauty and memorable moments.
Day 6: Final Leg
Moving time: 2:48:55 – Distance: 30.65 km – Climbing: 231 m
The last day had only a few kilometers left to the airport. We started with breakfast at Café Layered, enjoying two delicious scones, then proceeded west toward Jeju City. Despite having circumnavigated island for the past six days, we still had to swim in its sea. So we parked our bikes, changed into swimsuits, and jumped into the blue water of Hamdeok Beach.
Dried off and relaxed, we collected our last stamp of the journey. From there, we rode at a fast pace back to the city. Arrived at the airport, we folded the bikes at the gate and within minutes we were on the plane, concluding our adventure.
Final Remarks
Itinerary
Cycling on the Jeju Fantasy Cycling Path was an extraordinary experience. The route offered a perfect blend of coastal roads, inland detours, and scenic vistas. Each day brought its own set of challenges and rewards, from steep hills and volcanic landscapes to serene beaches and lush forests. The quality of the roads was generally excellent, with dedicated cycling paths available for most of the journey.
Accommodation was readily available, ranging from cozy pensions to modern hotels, providing comfort after long days of riding. Same goes for restaurants and cafes, which are a common sight throughout the island, except for its south west shore. Finally, the stamp collection aspect added a fun and motivating challenge to the journey, encouraging us to explore different parts of the island and stop for sightseeing.
In total, we covered 261 kilometers in 22 hours of riding, climbing 2180 meters and collecting all ten stamps on the Jeju Fantasy Cycling Path. The combination of well-maintained roads, scenic landscapes, and delicious food made for an unforgettable cycling adventure. A few considerations for future cyclists: be prepared for sudden changes in weather and pack accordingly. Ensure your equipment is well-suited for both smooth roads and rougher paths. Lastly, take your time to enjoy the journey. The detours and the spontaneous stops are what make the trip truly special. Do not stick to the beaten path.
Equipment
Our choice of bikes was a Pikes 16″ folding bike, a clone of the Brompton. These bikes proved to be versatile and convenient for this type of trip. They were easy to transport on planes and could fit in a small luggage. Also, they did not require disassembly and, being quite sturdy, we could pack them in a soft bag for the flight . Despite their small wheels, they handled the varying terrains surprisingly well. We used a light back pannier and a front bag for our essentials, which kept our load manageable and balanced. The only problem using this type of bikes is that the average speed will not be too high due to the small size of wheels, which means less kilometer for the same amount of time. Plan accordingly if you plan to use a folding bike.